![Enthralled with life in the watershed Mary shows the Listening to the River participants a crawfish (Photo: LTTR). [Click here to view full size picture]](media/magazine/tn_img_0029.jpg) |
| Enthralled with life in the watershed Mary shows the Listening to the River participants a crawfish (Photo: LTTR). |
Article by: Mary Manner
Video feature by: Kate Trainer
New Year's Day 2005 arrived cold and gray, humid and still. A ten-minute walk through the woods, a few quick steps in icy water, and my kayak was floating on the pewter-colored waters of Bowers Harbor, tiny waves slurping against the hull. It was a perfect morning for a paddle.
I headed east out of the shallows toward the drop-off, past the crinkled-up plastic milk jugs marking the sailboats' summer moorings, then turned south toward the tip of Neah-ta-wanta Point. In winter the water is extraordinarily clear and still beneath the surface. I gazed into the depths at boulders the size of microwaves and TV sets scattered across the bottom, but mostly it was sand sprinkled over cobble. Every rocky surface was covered with clumps of zebra mussels.
A swan perturbed by my approach lifted off, its flight feathers making a hissing-whistling noise as they sliced through the air. Early in the morning, this first day of the New Year, there was little traffic on the roads near the harbor, no engines whirring and tires whining. The only sound was the sweep of those powerful wings in steady beat as the bird rose up and leveled off.
The bird made a low, easy pass all the way around the harbor and came to rest again on the water near where it took off, and comfortably far from me. I wondered-was it worth it? All that work to fly away-and go nowhere. Was I such a threat? Or was the bird showing me a thing or two? I paddled on my way toward the Point, making a show of leaving, but I knew its sideways eye was watching me.
A reef has formed on the lee side of Neah-ta-wanta Point in recent years, and I threaded my way through the shallow, rocky shoals to investigate. Drawn by the idea of standing on new ground (the first human to set foot on these shoals?) I decided to put ashore. As I ran the kayak up to the edge of the reef the bow ground against the bottom with a peculiar, jingling sound, and I realized this reef was not made of sand and pebbles like the rest of the harbor shoreline. The reef is made of shells-millions and millions of zebra mussel shells. I stepped out of the kayak and immediately sank into them up to my ankles. Getting a bit wetter than I'd planned, I lurched toward solid ground, hauled the kayak up a ways, and set off on a grand exploration.
A tangle of shrubs, grasses and goldenrod, over-spreading the dry middle part of the reef, rustled in a light breeze rounding the point from the northwest. Along the edge it was shells, all shells, everywhere, a layer four inches thick and more, deeper on the windward side. They made a crunching sound as I walked, a sound I'd heard before but not in Michigan. It was the sound of footsteps on a driveway a thousand miles away on the Louisiana Gulf Coast where they use shells instead of gravel to pave driveways and back roads. I crunched around the reef and back to the kayak, musing about these alien bivalves and the island they were building.
I like to think that most of us who live here in paradise regularly have these kinds of intimate experiences with the nature. I also like to think that everyone appreciates the extraordinary beauty of this place, and accepts their role as stewards of the watershed. But I also know that I was the only one out there kayaking on New Year's Day morning, and nobody but me heard that swan or made landfall on a reef made of zebra mussel shells. It's one thing to appreciate our natural resources in principle-water is a precious resource, we must be mindful of how we use it-and another thing entirely to be a living, breathing part of the watershed, researching its mysteries and protecting its integrity.